Author: lilydarais

Meteora

We drove to Meteora early in the morning so we would get there before any busses or crowds. When we arrived, everything was still, quiet, and profoundly peaceful.

Here is a video Abe made from the Varlaam monastery:

Mt. Olympus

After Meteora we headed to Mt. Olympus. We wanted to see it mainly because of its role in Greek myths; we had no idea that the mountain would be anything special. But we were so wrong. I fear our pictures could never do this mountain justice! It was the most beautiful mountain Abe and I had ever seen. The whole road up and down the mountain we all kept essentially screaming in surprise at all of the vistas and colors. We also so five foxes (at five different times!). The fifth fox was being fed by people in their car so that is probably why so many were by the side of the road, but still it was fun to see them!

After Mt. Olympus we all rode down to the town at the base of the mountain and ate pasta, pizza, Greek salad, and ice cream. Then we got back into the car and I put “Sarakina” into the GPS. Our farm house was in a little village called “Sarakina,” so I imagined that would be sufficient.

That is why at 10pm at night we found ourselves driving on unlit roads in the middle of country nowhere. We still thought we were close to our village because it was also in the middle of nowhere, but when the road got so narrow and steep that we had to back up and turn around, I double checked the GPS.

Imagine the shock when I realized we were 45 minutes from the Bulgaria border and honestly not that much farther to Turkey. Our Sarakina (or Sarakinas, as it turned out) was three and a half hours southwest. Oops. Poor Abe had to drive almost until 2am that night. Luckily we had great audiobooks (Michael Pollan’s Second Nature and Stephen Fry’s Troy) and good music to keep him going. It turned out to be a really fun night in at least one other respect because we got to talk a lot to each other without interruption. That is always a treat.

Also (Abe interjecting here), there is one anecdote that I want to make sure we share. I’m not sure if it was today or another day after Naxos, but the kids have been using their devices a ton while we drive. It keeps them completely quiet, and they love it and we love it (the quiet, so we can listen to our Stephen Fry audiobook on Troy). One day we were driving, and Clarissa spontaneously (or so we thought) burst into tears. Her sobs were desperate like her dog just died or something. We asked Clarissa what was wrong and in a completely distraught voice she wailed, “My ipad died!”. She really does love that ipad. I’ve even heard her call it her “Ipaddy”.

Also, here are a bunch of other videos from the day:

Here is what Mary captured in her travel journal about today:

In the morning we had arranged for the previous day’s taxi driver and his nephew to taxi us to the car rental place. I am almost positive they ran the meter up by a very significant amount, but then again Clarissa got chocolate all over one of their 90,000 Euro taxis, so maybe it was okay.

It took a long time to rent a car even though we had reserved one in advance. As we were waiting we met the nicest men from Turkey who were there to compete in the triathlon the next day. We exchanged info with one of them in the hopes that they will come to Utah to bike or compete someday. After all the paperwork and everything was signed, we finally loaded the car and took off.

I had been very, very worried about driving in Greece. So worried, in fact, that I refused to do it, in spite of having an international driver’s license. I was just as worried about Abe driving in Greece, but it turns out he was a total natural. And the roads were much, much better than expected. It was a huge relief!

As we drove to our Airbnb in Sarakinas, we took the slightest detour to see Thermopylae, the site of the last stand of the 300 fighters from Sparta. I had read that there was not much there, but it turns out the visitor center had a short, 3D video that was excellent for children. It explained the differences in armor, weaponry, and training between the Greeks and the Persions, and it broke the three day battle down into graphics that were very easy to follow. By the end of the movie we all understood how brave, fierce, and ultimately self-sacrificing these Greek warriors were. We were excited to cross the road and stand on the hill where the warriors last stood.

After Thermopylae we drove to our Airbnb, which was in a small country village.

Here is what Mary captured about today in her travel journal:

Athens

After arriving in Athens we took two taxis to our Airbnb in the Plaka. It was a modest apartment but the location was incredible. It was literally around the corner from the Acropolis metro station–and the best pita place I’d tried yet on the trip.

After we dropped our bags off we headed out to see the Parthenon.

Abe and I enjoyed cuddling and watching the Parthenon glow in the evening light before we were kicked out at closing. The kids had a lot of fun playing in front of the Parthenon.

After strolling down the Plaka for a bit we settled down for some yummy gyros and the only real gelato I’ve had in over a decade. It was so incredible. I can taste it just remembering it. Mmmmmmmm….

Here is what Mary captured about today:

This was the view from right below our villa when we woke up in the morning. Naxos was beautiful.

We started by exploring the Chora’s Kastro, or old town by the castle. It was very similar to Apiranthos in its layout, except that it was not solid marble and there was no shoe cobbler in a tiny house nook in sight. There were, however, lovely twists and turns and fun nooks and crannies to explore.

Then we tried to find lunch, but since no one was open for that yet we explored the old market. I liked this better than the Kastro even.

Then we had lunch by the port and then headed in our car to the Alyeko Cedar forest with its secluded beaches. This was, by far, my favorite part of a heavenly Greece trip. I love the beach, I love Greek island beaches, and best of all I love secluded beaches. It means my kids can be wild and I don’t have to worry about them bothering anyone or kicking sand in anyone’s eyes. I don’t have to monitor them every single second because it’s a small beach and they don’t want to even wander. I can just lie by the water, relax, drink in the sun, and listen to the sound of my family enjoying themselves. As bonuses on top of bonuses, the water was not only crystal clear but warm too! Words can not express my appreciation for this beach and this treasure of an afternoon. I loved every single second and cherish this memory so much.

Abe wanted to watch the sun set, and it turned out to be an absolutely magical experience for all of us.

After this incredible afternoon, we went home, ate some leftovers, washed off, and went to bed. A beautiful day.

Demeter’s Temple

In the morning we set out to explore Naxos, and we started with Demeter’s Temple. We absolutely loved the surrounding area of the temple, and Ammon still says it is his favorite thing in Greece (this is being blogged after our trip has ended). The countryside looks kind of drab in the pictures, but in real life the countryside seemed to undulate out from the center of the temple. We loved looking at the ancient farms and groves all around. History seemed to really come alive as we examined the temple and the offering holes in the ground.

Chalki

In Chalki we observed high school students learning what looked like a traditional Greek dance in the outdoor gym section of the school, which was right next to our parking lot. Then we wandered through the charming streets of Chalki before realizing that most of it was shut down due to it being October. Since we had skipped breakfast, we got some smoothies from one shop that was open–and some lemon and chocolate cake, since we did not know when we would eat again. I also entered the store of a woman who was weaving beautiful greek cloth in the window, but after feeling slightly pressured left. I felt guilty about leaving all day and to now still wonder if I should have bought something.

Mt. Zas and Zeus’s cave

After leaving Chalki we drove to Mt. Zas. We did not know if we would attempt to hike to the top or just to the cave. As it turned out, the path was extremely slippery and the boulders/boulder climbing got more intense as we progressed, so after the cave we turned around.

(It helped that I asked a passing hiker how it was at the top and she strongly discouraged me from bringing kids up since it was wet, cold, windy, and–her words–very dangerous.) We did see a family with a six year old who had hiked to the top, but with Ammon being unpredictable and hard to manage, and Clarissa prone to fits and needing to be carried, we felt like the cave was a sufficient reward for a very fun hike. The kids all said it was their favorite part of the day and wanted to keep going.

Apiranthos, the marble city

I had read that Apiranthos was called the marble city, but as we approached the kids expressed disappointment. Mary, our little artist, was particularly peeved that the city would not be solid marble as promised.

But as soon as we stepped off the cement outer road onto the pavement of the actual city, we realized the city was made out of marble. The pavement, stairs, and building blocks for the houses were all marble. I am pretty sure the white paint on the houses was covering marble slabs underneath.

We all thought it was almost miraculous to walk in a solid marble city, and as we wandered and got lost in the city we felt we had stepped back in time. I mean waaaaaay back. At one point I turned a corner and literally saw a cobbler making shoes in an almost impossibly small room. I don’t think I will ever forget the image. I felt like I had entered a fairy tale.

All of the kids were appropriately awed and interested, but maybe the most enthused of us all was Abe. Even after we accidentally upset a resident by being too loud (lookin’ at you, cute Ammon!) and got barked at through a fence by ferocious sounding dogs, he wanted to keep wandering indefinitely. The kids started complaining they were hungry, which was fair since we had barely eaten anything all day. So we ended up having a little appetizer at the only open taverna we could find. The taverna seemed to be entirely owned and operated by one man and while I found some of the food slightly difficult to eat, he was the kindest person.

We drove home and cooked the kids some noodles and served them the rest of the fruit and olives in the fridge. They appeared happy with that arrangement, and it was nice to be in our little house for one evening.

In the morning we packed lightly and drove down to the port to catch our ferry to Santorini.

After this we caught our return taxi back to our Airbnb, where everyone changed into swimsuits and played in the hottub overlooking the sea and a blue and white church right behind us. Well, the kids and Abe played and I tried very hard not to be too cold (the hot tub was more like lukewarm).

In the morning Abe and I woke up and were stunned to learn that it was past 1pm. That jeg lag!

By the time we got out of the house we just had time for the kids to play on the beach a little bit before dinner at the same restaurant we ate at the night before (only this time we sat on the beach).

After dinner we explored Apollo’s temple at the port.

Also here is a tour of the house and area that Abe made:

A wonderful first day in Naxos!

Ammon’s sixth birthday was spent partly on a plane and partly in Athens. We took a taxi to our Airbnb in Piraeus, dropped our luggage, sorted out how to access cash since our ATM cards turned out to be out of date, and walked across the street to the metro to get to Athens. In Athens we walked a bit in Monastiraki and made our way to the Parthenon, eating a meal (was it lunch? Dinner? Who knows??) on the way. The Parthenon was supposed to be open late. But because of the rain it was closed. So we just turned around and made our way slowly back to Monastiraki to catch the metro back, enjoying the sights and sounds on the way.

As it was Ammon’s birthday, I need to recount the funniest conversation we had with him at some point on this trip. We were talking about Hades and Ammon piped up saying, in all sincerity, “But it’s good to be dead, right? Because then you don’t have to listen to your parents and can do anything you want because you’re already dead! Like you can wham bam into walls!!”

We laughed so hard. We think it is funny that Ammon’s idea of heaven is a place where you don’t have to have to listen to your parents, you can do anything crazy because you’re already dead, and specifically that heaven includes whamming and bamming into walls.

Also, on our last day in Greece we were on the metro headed into Athens and Ammon, as he always does, struck up a conversation with a kind woman. She and her husband were retired and were so delightful. (In fact, thanks to Ammon, we count them as new friends and plan to visit their restaurant in Andros in two years!) While she was telling us how they have flats around Europe but they travel all the time and every night her husband asks her which country they should plan on being in that night, she said, “I know I am crazy! All my girlfriends tell me I am crazy!”

Ammon, in his little mask, lit up like a light. “Hey,” he cried. “I am crazy too! Maybe that’s why we are friends!”

Again, he had us laughing pretty hard.

Also, in our pictures, I couldn’t help but note how I am almost always holding Ammon firmly by the hand or attempting to discreetly restrain him with my arms. Ammon, I love you so much and so I think I am a little overprotective sometimes. You are the sweetest, kindest, friendliest little boy and I never want you to get hurt or lost! But maybe, since your birthday was quite understated this year, I can try to give you more space this year. That might be a birthday gift that turns out to be your favorite yet.

We love you, Ammon! Happy birthday sweet boy!!!

Today the kids and I went to the Museum of Art. I loved how accessible–and free!–it was. Honestly, I was dreading the experience a little bit because I know that Ammon and Clarissa are hard to keep calm in museums. But I was surprised and delighted to have one of the best experiences I’ve ever had with all of the kids in public. We wandered around the museum together and everyone was actively engaged in the art. I had the best time asking the kids questions about the paintings and listening to their answers. Normally I do not take the time to ask them lots of questions, but art is such a wonderful medium for doing that.

After the museum we headed home where I fed the kids leftovers for lunch. Then I cleaned up and took a looooong nap. The kids played, watched screens, did homework, and then started an elaborate game of pretend until it was time to pick up Abe and head to dinner. We ate at Tupelo Honey. The southern food there was rich, delicious, and much too filling. Ammon did a startlingly good job eating his gigantic portion of meat loaf and green beans. The rest of us put in valiant efforts on whatever was in front of us, and we all left satisfied–but with stomachaches.

Then we put down the kids and Abe worked for a couple more hours while I packed everything up so we can drive to Asheville tomorrow. We are headed to the Biltmore estate, which I am looking forward to. I have to say I am excited to leave our Airbnb. It is perfectly located and cute, but it has a cockroach and bug problem. I feel pretty grossed out by all of the cockroaches we see and am quite ready to leave.